AQUA Pazza’s devotion to authentic Italian cusine - Daily FT

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Executive Chef and Managing Director Roberto Vicario (right) with Co-founder Paolo Gavioli

By Saesha Basanayake AQUA Pazza, founded by Roberto Vicario and Paolo Gavioli, first opened in Galle Fort in 2019 before bringing its culinary vision to Park Street Mews, Colombo, in 2024. Chef Vicario combines traditional Italian cooking with innovative ideas, giving dinners a genuine taste of Italy while adding a distinctive Sri Lankan touch. Much of the authenticity behind AQUA Pazza’s food comes from its Executive Chef and Managing Director, Roberto Vicario, who grew up in Italy learning traditional cooking at home. His approach is rooted in time-honoured techniques that he has developed throughout his career. Although cooking was not initially his chosen profession, Vicario left his career as an engineer in the oil and gas industry to pursue his passion for Italian cooking and develop the skills needed to bring authentic Italian cuisine to Sri Lanka. For Vicario, the restaurant is about “highlighting the authenticity of Italian food”, while moving away from the commercialised versions of Italian dishes that have become common around the world. He is particularly critical of dishes such as spaghetti bolognese, which are often presented as Italian despite not necessarily reflecting how the dish is traditionally prepared in Italy. The handmade pasta used in dishes such as Tagliatelle al Ragù Bolognese, Gnocchi alla Sorrentina and Ravioli di Magro adds another layer to the restaurant’s commitment to authenticity. Making the pasta themselves allows AQUA Pazza to preserve the techniques that have long been central to Italian cooking. However, staying true to Italian cuisine does not mean refusing to adapt. Rather than importing every ingredient from Italy, AQUA Pazza makes use of locally sourced produce where possible. This can be seen in its Prosciutto di Parma e Papaya, where the restaurant replaces the more traditional pairing of Parma ham with melon with locally sourced papaya. The papaya is cured to recreate the contrast that melon traditionally provides. Co-founder Paolo Gavioli describes this use of Sri Lankan ingredients as a “contamination” of two cultures. AQUA Pazza shows that authenticity does not necessarily mean keeping tradition completely untouched. The restaurant remains grounded in Italian techniques and flavours, but its willingness to work with Sri Lankan ingredients allows those traditions to evolve. In doing so, AQUA Pazza creates an experience that stays connected to its Italian roots while also reflecting the country it now calls home.

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