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The French-born chef shares recipes from his latest cookbook, from a steak frites with bearnaise sauce to a fancy twist on the classic croque-monsieur.
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For French-born chef and television presenter Guillaume Brahimi, food has always been part of the fabric of life – not just in the kitchen, but in everyday rituals, family gatherings and village markets.
As he writes in his new cookbook, Plat du Tour, “Food is the heartbeat of France. It tells the story of who we are, where we come from and how we live.”
Now living in Australia, Brahimi carries that heritage with him, blending it with new influences and perspectives of his home here.
His new recipe collection celebrates the best of both worlds, bringing together more than 70 regional recipes inspired by the SBS television series of the same name.
From regional classics to simple home-style meals, the recipes celebrate the beauty of seasonal produce and the pleasure of eating well.
“[The book] combines two great passions of mine – the joy of sharing French food and one of the country’s most loved events, the Tour de France,” Brahimi writes.
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“Every July, as the riders make their way across the rich culinary landscape of France, they reveal something extraordinary: not only the beauty of France, but also its incredible diversity of regions, traditions and flavours.”
As former Sydney Morning Herald restaurant critic Terry Durack writes in the book, Brahimi isn’t just one of Australia’s celebrated chefs, he’s also a proud ambassador for the cuisine of his homeland.
“Coq a vin. Salade nicoise. Tarte au chocolat. It’s your own personal tour of France’s greatest and most delicious dishes, in one glorious book.”
Here, Brahimi shares four recipes from the collection: vegetable-rich soup au pistou; slow-cooked pot-au-feu; steak frites with bearnaise sauce; and an elevated twist on the classic croque-monsieur.
Soupe au pistou is Provence in a bowl – generous, rustic and full of sunshine. It’s the kind of dish you’ll find in villages across the south of France, made with whatever vegetables are fresh and plentiful, always finished with a dollop of pistou – the Provencal cousin of pesto, made with basil, garlic and olive oil. I like to use white beans, zucchini, carrot and pasta, but it’s a flexible recipe. What matters is the spirit: a soup that brings people together, simple but full of flavour. It’s honest, regional French cooking at its very best.
Pot-au-feu is a dish I grew up with, and it’s the ultimate comfort food. It’s not complicated, but it takes time, and that’s what makes it special. The key is in the slow cooking: rich cuts of beef simmered gently with vegetables, marrow bones and a classic bouquet garni until everything is tender and deeply flavoured. I serve it just as it comes – meat, vegetables and broth all together – with a good spoonful of Dijon mustard, a few cornichons and warm bread on the side. If you can’t find marrow bones, beef shanks will work just as well.
Note : To make the bouquet garni, tie five thyme sprigs, four flat-leaf (Italian) parsley sprigs and two fresh bay leaves together with string.
Steak frites – the classic pairing of steak and French fries – is a beloved staple of brasseries across Europe, and is often claimed as the national dish by both France and Belgium. This version is served with bearnaise sauce, said to have been invented in 1836 by chef Jules Collinet for the opening of Le Pavillon Henri IV near Paris. Named in honour of the king’s birthplace in Bearn, the sauce is a tribute to one of France’s most popular monarchs – and to its rich culinary tradition.
This is my twist on the classic croque-monsieur – a version I like to serve when I want something a little lighter, but still completely indulgent. Instead of ham, I use beautiful smoked salmon, layered with sliced mozzarella, a sprinkle of chives and soft white bread. The trick is to cook it gently, so the bread goes golden and crisp while the cheese melts inside. And just to take it to the next level, I finish each piece with a little spoonful of salmon roe – a nod to my love of luxury, and a perfect burst of flavour and texture.
It’s elegant, simple and tres delicieux.
This is an edited extract from Plat du Tour by Guillaume Brahimi, photography by Mark Roper. Published by Hardie Grant Books, RRP $45 .
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