Curled up in Sri Lanka's hill capital, Kandy, lies one of the world's most bizarre hotels. Not for the faint-hearted and certainly not for those expecting a conventional hotel, Helga's Folly is an intense, breathing work of continuous art. Home to phantasmic murals, age-spotted mirrors, a plethora of storied antiques, the building was created by Madame Helga de Silva, a figure so iconic the Stereophonics wrote a song about her .
Madame Helga carries the burden of a weighty history–society marriages, deep tragedy, and visits from everyone from Gregory Peck to Gandhi. In conversation with Madame Helga, it's clear that her stories have taken their own form and are now bigger than she is–emblazoned and in harsh technicolour on the walls, windows, and in the innumerable newspaper clippings about her family.
Don't let the heady stories and the nymph-guarded outdoor pool draw you in unwarned–the hotel pays homage to many tragic histories and the empty, barely-lit corridors are chilling if you're the only resident for the night. Regardless, Helga's Folly remains one of the island's rare bastions of old world eccentricity and cannot be missed–even if it's just for a cup of tea and a look around.
How to get there: The hotel is barely 10 minutes from Kandy town by tuk-tuk or car. When to visit: Throughout the year Tickets/Entry: Rooms begin at $90 (Rs6,500); self-guided tours are possible for $3 (Rs210) or if you order tea or a meal. Contact: Website ; 0812-234 571
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